Saturday 30 January 2010

Paris je t'aime: Dark Dior Days




Sitting round the circular runway, lit by a harsh steel framework of strip lights we wondered whether the Parisian equivalent of Gladiators was about to begin whilst we Blackberried away until the Dior Homme show began. Any signs of a steroid-popping Lycra-clad muscleman were quickly dismissed as a dark moody soundtrack alluded as to what was about to step out. Black, black and more black were definitely the plat du jour on this menu and the waitress wasn't going to let you order anything else. Although that's not to say that there weren't plentiful options of the type of wear to be had.

For example if you need a parka jacket that is so outwardly billowing in its fit then here you had it. As per usual there were some fine suits some with two-layer panels and interesting trousers to complement. Plenty of drop-crotching as seen at Dries but this time cropped intensely above the heel and worn with boots, lace-ups and black socks. Thom Browne's reach still resonates perhaps? Skinny ties slimmed this looser fit down in addition to the slim collars on shirting but overall things were a lot looser than seen in previous Dior days..what would Hedi Slimane think about all this we pondered? There was certainly a feel of a schoolboy who'd outgrown his uniform but had decided to pinch his Dad's coat and told everyone to just sod off in elements of this collection.

Out of the darkness emerged a grey period that appeared even looser with easy cashmere outerwear and slouchy, yet slick suiting.

Those devout Dior Homme fans will be pondering whether they can let loose themselves after seeing this. Ben & Jerry's anyone?

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